PLANTING A LAWN
Whether planting a lawn with seed or sod, complete soil preparation is essential for lush, healthy, easiest-maintenance results: it determines the health and appearance of the lawn for years to come. And soil preparation follows the same steps, until seed is spread or sod is laid. You will have a beautiful, thick, sturdy, healthy lawn starting from seed, at least of equal quality to a sodded lawn. Follow the steps below for best results.
Calculate approximate square footage of lawn area (multiply Length X Width in feet) to determine the correct amounts of compost, fertilizer and seed to be applied. Design Notes: Use a length of rope or hose to determine edge of lawn. Avoid a deeply convoluted edge in favor of gentle curves that will be much easier to mow and maintain.
Till bare ground to at least 6" deep. If the old lawn still exists there, remove it with a sod cutter (available at rental stores), OR smother and bake it under a layer of black plastic (this will take time but requires minimal effort and is very effective). OR spray only those areas to be killed with RoundUp and allow grass to brown and die before proceeding.
If you need to bring up the grade, add a 50/50 mixture of topsoil and compost. Otherwise, spread a 2-3" layer of compost. Compost enriches and benefits all soils, breaks up clay soil, or enhances fertility and water-holding capacity of sandy soil. Till at least 6" deep to mix compost with native soil. Remove any larger rocks lying at the surface.
Rake to level freshly tilled soil, filling in any low spots. Roll with water-filled roller (available at rental shops) to compact soil gently, uniformly.
Spread Whitney Farms Organic Lawn Food at the “new lawn” rate. A drop spreader applies this most accurately and evenly whether the area is large or small; a “whirlybird” spreader may be used if you can ensure even coverage. It is optional here to lightly rake the fertilizer in.
Using a drop spreader, spread the lawn seed in a N-S direction and the remaining in an E-W direction. Seed must be covered to minimize drying out and optimize germination. Spread a very thin, layer of Turf Mulch OR Whitney Farms Garden Mulch evenly over seed. Roll a second time with water-filled roller to gently press mulch and seed into contact with soil.
Water immediately using a fairly fine mist, watering just enough to soak in and stopping just before puddles form or seed washes away. You may water for only a few minutes, let it soak in briefly and then water again to ensure adequate moisture. The seed bed must remain consistently moist during the entire germination period, which could be anywhere between 7 and 14 days long; it is very possible you will be watering morning and evening during warm weather.
Seed germinates most quickly and successfully between late April and early October, usually taking at least 7 days before new growth is visible. Avoid seeding during periods of extreme heat in July and August as it will be difficult to supply enough water consistently during germination and the few weeks after.
Various fine fescues and perennial ryegrasses should make up the seed mix; these “cool-season” grass types perform best in our Pacific Northwest climate. Emery’s Northwest Best Seed Mix is blended for full sun locations, and is also best suited for overseeding and/or repair of an existing lawn. Show and Shade Seed Mix is blended for use in light to medium shade locations. No lawn seed (or sod) will thrive in deep shade, or where soil is damp and slow-draining. Moss and weeds are sure to move in where lawn, in those locations, grows sparely and weakly. Groundcovers and/or low shrubs are a better choice in those situations.
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